top of page
un / orthodox
tailoring: studio
The Un/orthodox tailoring studio plays the element of location, specifically learning and applying the techniques of heritage tailoring styles and on the other hand juxtaposing this. Breaking the rules in the essence that the techniques are applied in an unfamiliar context and location.
development
Once the skills were learnt, we were required to apply those skills in an attempt to "repair the radical" within the jacket. My attempt of this was to cut away the waistline and using both the herringbone and pad stitch I created an exaggerated inverted waist line in the jacket. As well as a continuous pattern along the lapel line. Heightening this notion of heritage and traditioonal elements but changing the location from interior to exterior. Alongside this project we were also required to pattern make and create a woollen tailored jacket.
Beginning the semester un/orthodox tailoring studio by locating a second hand tailored jacket from Savers. We were required to identify and discuss the various traditional elements of the jacket both externally and internally. Whilst discoverying the jacket parts we were developing our own skills in hand sewing in particular herringbone, pad and slip stitches.
From two dimensional to three dimensional i created half of a prototype that focused on the reversing of darts, once again bringing the interior to the exterior. I was highly fashioned by the geometric aesthetic of the jacket and wanted to continue looking into research that supported this.
​
As part of the studio assignments it was required to play a role in the act of unorthodox draping but creating shapes on a two dimensional piece of calico, cutting them up and then sewing them back together in a random order and form. This caused us to think in an accidental manner and create prototypes that were not over thought and pre planned.
Two practitioners that highly influenced my studio work during this semester were the work of Dior, Viktor and Rolf and Maison Margiela. Each designer focused and manipulated my design choices in different areas of both design, study and reflection. John Galliano for Dior use of colour in his vibrant, tribal and chaotic driven collection of 1997 created the colour palette of highly saturated colours that were almost too bold and bright. The use of contrasting colours in the particular dresses to the traditional beads heightened this idea of juxtaposing elements. Secondly Viktor and Rolf, whose collection of Fall 2015 not only being "Wearable Art" but also a geometric combination of fabric and wood that supported my initial three dimensional unorthodox prototype in both drape and silhouette. Finally Maison Margiela who employs the same notion of exposing the internal on the external fabric surface, in particular the pad stitching lines that follow the pattern making lines of the tailored men's jacket. All three practitioners shaped and formed the basis for my final prototype unorthodox jacket.
Through idea generation I applied all three designers motifs and particular skills and elements that influenced me onto my unorthodox jacket toile. It was decided that the external stitching would be seen as a variation of herringbone stitch normally used on the shoulder pads, not visible to the audience. Another device that was applied was the reference to two point perspective and geometric silhouette applied by reversing large dart lines, which would create form in the jacket. Finally it was decided to use a striking red coloured cow hyde a my materiality for the jacket, due to its unorthodox tailoring nature and its ability to hold a strong silhouette.
All Videos
bottom of page